![]() ![]() So, I've come up with two ideas, and I'm hoping you could tell me which would be more effective in absorbing/blocking more sound. And, in my case it's even longer than the one in the picture. ![]() Which I find very helpful because it helps block more sound. I have the built-in closet as well, and so it forms that kind of passageway just like in the photo. Well, in order for you to have a clear idea of the door and room entrance structure, I attached a photo that's representative of the structure. ![]() I know that 100% soundproof is unrealistic, but I do believe that I can improve it so much more by adding more material. I'd like to isolate the sound coming from outside the room. I have cast my own high-pressure concrete into a mold (I tried putting a 3D printed prusa logo buck into the concrete to make a cool visual but the concrete stuck to the PC leaving a big tear out (despite a 3 degree draft angle and mold release lube), so I think I will laser cut the logo in 2-color acrylic and pour a coating of epoxy resin to seal the surface of the paver with the logo sealed in it.I'd like to get some advice and suggestions on how I can better isolate sound coming into a bedroom through the door. I 3D printed and casted isolation washers and fender washers in 10A silicone. A friend is a mechanical engineer who does NVH reduction for aerospace (she did the NVH mitigation for the Hubble repair mission) so pinged her about the best isolation damper material and based on some research papers the majority of the resonances are centered around 50 and 350hz. This is certainly an impressively heavy damping mass. Yes, when I was getting mulch over at Home Depot I did find the 24” pavers so went with one of those and just hammer drilled the bolt holes. Here's hoping the XL comes with free foam as well □ There's usually a large square sheet of it on top, and that makes a perfect insulator to go between the slab and the desktop. So far, every printer I've bought has arrived packed with a bunch of closed-cell foam. At around $4 and $10 respectively, they're cheap enough that there's no excuse not to use one. Posted by: it's location-dependent, but here in the US where everything is big, our major hardware stores (home depot and lowes) both regularly stock large paving slabs. The two concepts can be used in conjunction with each other, but MFD doesn't have enough mass to it for the first usage. The point of foam, silicone, sorbothane, rubber feet, is isolation. ![]() The point concrete, marble, whatever, is for mass loading. Any opinions from those who know about such things? Is it best to damp vibration with squishy stuff or heavy rigid stuff? If I had to do the concrete slab approach I guess pouring a 30cmx30cmx2.5cm slab wouldn't be impossible (I'd leave holes in the mold so I could bolt it down to the table) For the XL I could I guess pour a small slab of concrete into mold on the table top, but I was thinking of just putting a slab of MDF with some silicone washers underneath to isolate it. I currently have my printers sitting on a large slab of butcher block (maple) and for the MK3s I have them sitting on a smaller block of medium density foam. Posted by: realize I may be asking a religious question here, but while I have seen people espouse the use of a large concrete slab for under the mk3's that's less applicable given the massive footprint of the XL. ![]()
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